(to) The Holidays and Beyond!

Some days I wake up to a beautiful 65 degree and misty morning, that fades to a 75-degree day; and I think back to PA and how it’s probably 36 and rainy (or recently 9 degrees and snowing!!!) and I’m so glad I’m here. Other days, like on December 25th, I wake up disoriented from a vivid dream where I was playing in a high school production of Carmina Burana with my middle school music director (who was absolutely fantastic)….and then I remember my sister is thousands of miles away, and all I want to do is cuddle with her and my dog while we wait for our parents dad to wake up. (Mom usually woke up a few times and went back to sleep.) And those mornings are tough.

Before I left, I asked a few of my friends and family members, people I worked with and people I love; to write me letters. I brought those with me, and have been opening them a few at a time while re-reading ones I’ve already opened. They help. My sister and I had been talking about getting a tattoo together for years, but when I knew I was leaving, we figured it out and got it. That helps. Most days I’m so glad I’m here because this is still a crazy adventure of mundane things….but on days like Christmas, it’s definitely hard to see the point. Especially when the internet is blocked. That’s when I call friends here, eat snack foods I’ve hoarded (from care packages – you know who you are – I love you all), drink a few beers and listen to music.

(Abu and one of her puppies.)

Since Ethiopia is on its own calendar, (either Gregorian or Julian…I’m not sure sorry. And I don’t have access to google right now soooooo) our New Years is nothing special. Their New Years lands on our September 11th, usually.

Ethiopian Christmas just happened on January 7th. They celebrate by visiting family, drinking lots of coffee, eating doro wat (spicy chicken soup…ish? With hard boiled eggs and eaten on injera), kitfo (chopped up, spiced raw meat. Absolutely delicious. Eaten with injera or this banana-leaf stuff I don’t remember the name of…again, no google. Sorry.), kurt (chunks of raw meat (usually dunked in arake – the local moonshine that tastes like soap) I haven’t had the courage to try it yet, especially since when there’s been kurt, there’s usually kitfo too), kai wat (which is like doro wat without the eggs or chicken. With mutton instead and served with the omnipresent injera). What they make depends on the family, but everyone takes a day (or two) off from work. I celebrated with my neighbors by eating more food than I’ve had in one sitting since I’ve been here. It was all delicious.

And as I’m writing this a full 24 hours later, I’m still stuffed.

😁

(The puppy I named Cricket.)

All About Coffee, 3 Months at Site

Somebody told me it takes 3 months to adjust to a completely new situation. If so, then I’m right on schedule.

As I slowly wake up, while still lying in bed in the morning, I try to determine if I have electricity, because that determines how easy the morning will be. I have an electric stove (slow, but easy) and a charcoal stove (slow to get started, but much faster and hotter than electric).

If I have electricity, I roll out of bed, turn on the kettle, and crawl back in bed, usually to read. If I don’t have power, I wait till I wake up fully, then bring my charcoal stove outside, collect tinder, and start it.

I don’t teach until almost 1pm, so my mornings are pretty peaceful. When I make lunch, I try to make enough to last me for dinner too…because I’m a lazy cook. Since I broke my laptop, I’ve been reading more. I also have a guitar that I play on occasion. I found a mat that works well for yoga, and of course there are always papers to grade and lessons to plan.

Many mornings I’m invited to my neighbors for coffee. (They are confused that I drink coffee first, then eat breakfast.)

Speaking of coffee…

(A neighbor friend – Samira.)

About a week into this adventure, while completely sleep deprived and scrambling to adjust to a new…everything, I wrote a post mentioning Ethiopian coffee here: Magic Coffee.

Since I’ve now been here awhile, and I’m living in the heart of the coffee growing region, I thought I should write another post and do the subject justice.

Nearby is the Keffa region, the place in the world coffee was named for. All around Jimma are the places where the best coffee in the world is grown. Here, I can get a cup of coffee for 3birr (27birr : $1). The coffee exported from here is the super fancy stuff sold for $4 or $5 a cup at Starbucks. So that’s amusing.

First the beans are picked. (Right now is coffee harvesting season.) They’re dried in the sun, and then the cherry is taken off and the beans are dried again. This is the step where coffee is usually sold.

When you get the beans, you want to wash them again, and roast them. Don’t wash and let sit. I made that mistake. It was super sad. Once they’re roasted, you grind them. Either by pounding them, or, if there’s electricity, by a grinder I bought for 150birr. Totally worth it.

Traditionally, coffee (buna) is roasted and brewed in front of you. I keep some grounds handy because I brought a small French press. What Ethiopians do, is put a few spoonfuls into a djebena (coffee pot), and put it on the fire. They wait until it boils, then pull it off the fire to let the grinds settle to the bottom of the pot. They serve it in small cups – with sugar, salt, butter or “dua” (black). Lately, sugar has been super expensive because of a shortage, so yeroo hunda (always) I have been drinking my coffee dua.

People drop in on their friends for coffee frequently. If someone is making it, they will invite everyone over. When I was sick, my land lady offered me coffee in bed. When she twisted her ankle hard, I brought her some in bed. A PCV told me once that he never ran across a problem that he couldn’t solve with a conversation over coffee.

It’s a deeply cultural experience, which is why coffee is still inexpensive here. I’ve heard PCVs in Columbia drink instant coffee, because all the good coffee gets exported. I’m thoroughly addicted to caffeine, and coffee is my favorite form. So I’m grateful.

Just like in the US – if it starts with coffee, it’ll be a good day.

(Sometimes all it takes is the truly bizarre to brighten my day.)

Christmas in Africa

Written while listening to “The Twelve Days of Christmas” by Straight No Chaser. (The last verse devolves into “Africa” by Toto. It’s epic.)

Since the weather here is warm, and mostly sunny, it most definitely doesn’t feel like Christmas. I grew up in the North East – where Christmas is supposed to be accompanied by snow, freezing winds, and lots of warm clothes. This is weird. Also, as a singer, I usually spend a lot of time singing and listening to Christmas music. I’ve tried, and it definitely helps, but it’s also definitely different. (Since I’ve spent the past 6 years working at the King of Prussia mall, the holidays have also been filled with a level of frantic stress I’m glad to be rid of.)

December 14th was my 28th birthday, and my sisters 21st birthday. It was painful that I couldn’t call her. (Ethiopia shut the internet off. Because they can). I did get lucky though, that my birthday fell during our “Reconnect”. (Three months into site, there’s a training where everyone from my group got pulled together again. It was a great check-in, and it was absolutely fantastic to see everyone.)

The night of my birthday was a bonfire, and a bunch of the guys made the women coffee. In Ethiopia, making coffee is something that is usually always a woman’s job. Ethiopia is frequently overtly and explicitly misogynistic; and the guys in g17 did this for us as a “We see you and respect you all. You deal with some awful sh*t you don’t deserve. You’re awesome. You got this” gesture. It was a pretty emotional experience. They also wrote each of us a card. (Mine is now tacked on my wall.) It was so comforting to learn they’ve got our backs – to the point where they went way out of their way to let us know.

Later that night was a meteor shower. So while I wasn’t able to watch the new Star Wars movie, it was definitely a birthday I will always remember.

(The above photo was clearly stolen from a friend’s Instagram).

Christmas is coming the goose is getting fat…

My family has a few awesome Christmas traditions. One of these is new pajamas on. Christmas Eve. Another? Christmas morning breakfast. Possibly my favorite though is splitting a large bottle of wine – usually Chianti – with my sister on Christmas Eve, while we blast Christmas music and wrap our gifts/write cards in adjoining rooms, with the door open so we can talk. That is something I’m going to miss this year. I don’t know if it’s easier because it doesn’t feel like Christmas, or worse. I’d imagine it’s super tough to have a seat missing at the Christmas table – so Mom, Dad and Danielle – I love you so so much. Hopefully I’ll have internet and can call you.

Instead, a bunch of us are meeting in Metu for Christmas and New Years weekends, to drink, eat and play Jaded Aid. It’s going to be fun. Thanksgiving in Jimma was awesome, but it’s far. Metu will be smaller, but a more peaceful trip overall. The PCVs here, we’ve already become a family. NYE will probably be a bit calmer than I’m used to…but it’ll be good I’m sure.

New Years has always been a “friends holiday” for me. I just got a Halloween box they sent which is hella appropriate (because it’s my favorite holiday) and exciting. I’m saving it to open at home. (I’m currently borrowing WiFi from a hotel in Metu to post this). I love you all, and it is so encouraging to know you support this crazy thing I’m doing. hugggg

There isn’t much about Ethiopia in this post…it’s definitely a personal one. Look for the next post – it’ll be alllll about Ethiopia. I think. Maybe. At least it’ll have more information than this one.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!! What’s up 2018?

Thanks for reading! Love you all 🙂

Caption: Italian-Americans take back Ethiopia?? Joe has a great blog too, check it out: https://joetravelsite.wordpress.com

Packing for Ethiopia, Illu Babour/Oromia edition

So the thing about Peace Corps Ethiopia is that there is arid highland, desert, and the rainforest. They take your weather requests into account when placing you, but because it’s Peace Corps, you can’t count on anything.

I’m in a high rainforest, so based on that, here are my thoughts.

Also, if you’re wondering how the holidays are here, sorry. Next post! (Which will be soon. Like tomorrow haha).

Clothes

Disclaimer: I’m an education volunteer, and a woman. Teachers here dress nice, but jeans are considered nice because they’re Western. I wear mostly dress pants or flowy (baggy/hippy) pants, and I’ve never had a problem. I’ve heard from some agriculture volunteers that wearing skirts helps them integrate….most of the female teachers at my school wear skinny jeans.

Health volunteers work closely with the highest educated HCNs (host country nationals), and locals…so they have a bit of both.

Ultimately, the most important thing when picking clothes to bring, is that you feel comfortable wearing them. Bring a few of your favorite T-shirts. Bring your favorite pajama pants. Bring a hoodie. Bring underwear that makes you smile. It’ll help you so much.

Secondary note : quite a few things on this list are fairly superfluous (school supplies, organization stuff…) I’m naturally very disorganized; so if my stuff isn’t organized I’m fairly non-functional. It might seem like I’m type A; I promise you I’m not. I included them because they don’t take much space, but they’ve come in handy.

If you’re an education sector volunteer, coming in June, you’ll be coming into the rainy season which is tough. It gets cold. And muddy. Bring a pair of wool socks or three. Bring a warm sweater/jacket…or both. Not a winter coat. But a warm jacket will probably be helpful.

During PST they expect you to be professional (business casual) at all times. At the same time, you’re washing your clothes by hand. I wore T-shirts with a scarf and sweater/jacket (warmth, not suit jacket) often, and wore a button down occasionally.

A recommendation I got that I want to emphasize – go to goodwill and thrift shops. Look for cool, breezy, business casual-esque pants. If they adjust to fit you even if you lose/gain weight, even better. Some last minute impulse buys have become my favorite pants here.

Another note – a friend gave me two wool sweaters that have been absolutely invaluable. The temperature in the morning will be cold, then heat up to what would be in the US – shorts and sleeveless weather (here shorts are “special slut wear”), and then drop again at night.

Some people say bring some extra underwear only for the second year. I brought quite a few pairs (17? 20? Underwear doesn’t take up much space) – some cotton, some quick dry, and some Thinx. High high recommendation on the Thinx pairs. They’ve saved me quite a few times. Bathrooms here are …. challenging.

Rain clothes : bring them. Especially where I am, rain boots and a good rain jacket are a must have. I also have a rain cover for my backpack. One of my friends brought rain pants, and he definitely wore them. I’m ok without them, but I’m so glad I brought my boots. My friends up in Tigray? They’re fine with just hiking boots. But if you’re an education volunteer, your PST will be in the south during the rainy season.

Final note on clothes – no matter how light you think you are packing, you will likely bring more clothes with you, than people own here. So there’s that.

Shoes

Shoes hold a special place in Ethiopian culture. People pay to have their shoes washed frequently.

Also, shoes get DESTROYED here. I brought a few pairs of ballet flats….they lasted 3 weeks. You can buy cheap “shint bet” shoes here no problem, but when deciding which ones to bring – go for sturdy ones. And bring at least one nice (enough) close-toed pair.

Technology

Solar charger (I’ve got a Anker Power Port Solar – two panels, two USB ports). It doesn’t charge my laptop, but it handles my phone and nook just fine.

Battery pack. Keep an eye on Amazon’s sales, and get one. Mine charges my phone at least 8 full times. (Rav power)

At least a 2T external hard drive. (I’ve got a 1T and a 2T. I currently have 2.5gigs of files.)

A few flash drives. You can use them directly with the printers here – at least you can in the Jimma office.

Unlocked smart phone, with a VPN. If you hunt around, you can find vpns that aren’t too expensive. You can also find free ones, but I wouldn’t trust those. I got one for $70 – 5 devices, for a lifetime.

Nook or kindle. I think a friend of mine has a library membership where she can rent digital books any time she has WiFi – rare, but it happens. I signed up for BookBub’s daily email to alert me to ebooks that were cheap ($0.99-$3.99) every day for the year or so before I left. I caught quite a few good books through that.

Small bluetooth speaker! Worth it.

Extra headphones. The ones you can buy in country are either SUPER expensive, and in Addis only; or absolute trash.

Insurance. I’m currently working with a claim for my laptop. Peace Corps recommends Clements. (*update – since my laptop couldn’t be fixed in country, it was a bit of a headache getting the paperwork they wanted to certify that. Once I got it to them, it was no problem.)

A few cheap solar lamps. (You can buy these here, but they’re expensive and bad quality).

A headlamp or two – I’d get one that uses a rechargeable battery (Petzl for the win!) because AAA batteries are tough to find here.

Toiletries

They say bring enough for 3 months…I say if you’re attached to something, bring more of it. (I’m super attached to my toothpaste – LUSH toothy tabs – I worked there for several years) and I brought enough for possibly two years. One year at least.

You can buy everything, even deodorant, here….but sometimes it’s difficult to find. Or really far away.

Tampons! If you’re a tampon person, bring many. And prepare a box to be shipped to you during PST with more. I heard you can only buy them in Addis, and they’re not the type you know. (edit: I’ve been looking for them in Addis, and I haven’t found them yet.) I’ve heard good things about the diva cup, everyone I know who uses one loves it. Get used to it in the states is my advice. I’m working on figuring it out here, and it’s just a little more stressful here.

Again – Thinx – they’re wonderful. I can’t use them on their own, but when I’m at school – 30mins walk from my house….. they’ve saved me a lot of embarrassment and stress. (Quite a few people here use them.)

Hand sanitizer – a friend brought a TON of this. It was super helpful during PST. Now, 6 months in, I don’t use it as much. But in the beginning it was so, so helpful.

Miscellaneous

Push pins/thumb tacks – to put photos on your walls. If you’re in Tigray….maybe tape? (The houses up there are concrete.)

Ear plugs – there was one day during PST that the church near me was blasting music for almost 24hrs straight. It was awful.

Paper clips – like many things, you can find them here, but they’re weirdly expensive. I had some lying around at home in my “not-junk” drawer.

Small French press coffee maker (Hi my name is Mari and I’m a coffee addict. Definitely not necessary, but I like to make myself coffee on days my neighbors don’t invite me.)

Small non stick pan (You can buy these in Addis, but they’re expensive based on the money Peace Corps gives you.)

Decent chopping knife (I brought this, but I don’t use it often. I use my Spyderco lockback for just about everything.)

Lock back knife – I use it more than the dollar store chopping knife I brought.

Leatherman (Sometimes you just need a screwdriver…or something random.)

Chopsticks – it’s weird what you miss here.

Some of my favorite spices (garlic powder! You can find garlic here, but garlic powder is so much easier to use. And difficult to find.)

Some of my favorite teas (I have not been able to find Mint tea for my life. Or any herbal tea. There’s plenty of black tea though.)

Grayl water bottle – orange filter. Not necessary, but it’s nice to be able to drink sink water at hotels without worrying.

Sleeping bag

Sleeping mat for camping

Hammock (I’m in the forest, so I use it.)

60L pack – It’s huge, but a lot of times I use it because my 30L is too small for longer trips. Also I’m 5’10, 200ish lbs. I think if I was smaller and a better packer, I’d be fine with a 40L. Probably.

Clothes pins – where I am, it can take three days for clothes to dry during the rainy season.

Letters. I asked friends, family…people I loved to write me letters that I could open and read later when I was down and out. Such a good idea. Now that I’ve settled into my house, the letters are pinned up in my room.

Grammar book – digital and physical copies. Digital is nice because I’ve got it on my phone. Physical is good when there is no electricity. In a couple more years I expect the regional offices will have plenty of copies floating around. Right now, not so much.

Luggage locks. (Bag slashing isn’t so much a problem here. Unzipping is. But mostly in Addis. Ethiopia is a high petty crime and harassment, low violent crime country.)

Photos of friends and fam – to show people here, and for walls. (People like looking at physical photos. And I never feel at home anywhere until I put photos on my walls.) ** since I live in Oromia – dirt walls! I staple my photos into my walls. My friends up north use tape or putty to attach theirs. (They have cement houses.)

Snacks – in re-useable containers. I repackaged my favorite snacks in ziplock type containers to save space packing, and it was a fantastic idea. I’m now using those containers for sugar, salt and spices. In the market, they sell things in plastic bags here. If there’s a container store near you – (there’s a company called “the container store”) check it out. They’ve got some good, fairly cheap containers…don’t get lost.

Jerky – They don’t eat meat as much here. Especially if you’re an Ag or Health volunteer you’ll be coming in during a major fasting season – almost no meat anywhere for a few months.

Surge protector / converter – I bought a Bestek one – so far so good! There are also cheap converter plugs here that are probably fine…that’s when I’d definitely get insurance though.

Pillow – I brought a pillow because I’ve had neck challenges here and there. It was a good life decision. Normal pillows are definitely available here though. A bit pricy but available.

Microfiber towel – useful for travel. Tough to wash, but all towels are. Some people hate them though. I’d try it before bringing it.

Duct tape – for so many things. The first thing I used it for was to put names on hard drives. Then names on bags….photos on walls…. endless uses. I’ve heard you can find it here, but so far I’ve only found electrical tape.


So those are my thoughts! I hope you found that useful, or at least not a waste of your time.

Good luck and Baga Nagaan Dhuftaan!!

🙂

Buses, Bajajs and Kit-kits oh my!

After a spectacularly prolific October, November flew through my hands leaving no trace of it on my blog. Where the hell does time go?

The highlights:

I’m (still) settling in, this still kinda feels like an extended vacation, I’m getting to know the frustrating and extremely unreliable transportation; while adopting an Ethiopian attitude about it – I’ll get there when I get there. I’m getting to know how my students learn, and trying to figure out how the communication within the circle of teachers works (I keep walking into the school to learn that today, there is a club I’m running, or a test I need to give, or a meeting after school…..things I think I should know in advance.) Maybe by next year I’ll know what to expect?

For Thanksgiving I went to Jimma. Seeing people outside the Metu loop was great, plus it’s about 75 degrees here, and there was a pool!!!! (If you don’t know, back home swimming was my thing – at least twice a week for the past few years.) Swimming was absolutely magical. I was able to completely ignore everything and just be.

A sour note at the end of that trip was when I was a complete ******** idiot, and dropped my laptop. I’m pretty sure it’s just the screen that was broken…I’ll know more soon. On the upside, I have some absolutely amazing friends, who completely humble me with their support of my craziness, and they have already started helping me figure out how to fix it. (I seriously love you guys.)

So now that you’re caught up, on to the post.


As I was on the bus this morning from my site to my hub town, I had the random thought “who the **** thought I was qualified to do this?” And then I realized, it was me. Well then.

Transportation in Ethiopia is an experience. One that is making me a better person….stronger person??….more patient?? I’m not sure, but it’s definitely forcing me to handle sht differently. Sometimes literally. More frequently it’s vomit though. Sht has (luckily) been rare.

Sometimes chickens roam freely on a large bus. Sometimes they’re strapped to the top. Sometimes the person next to you pukes… I’ve only puked once on a bus so far, and it was somewhat self induced. Lesson learned.

The craziest story I’ve heard thus far was about a mother, who thinking (correctly) that the bus was going to crash, tossed her toddler out of the window to save it. The kid survived, but I think had a broken leg? Not 100% sure about the kid’s injuries, but everyone definitely survived.

The buses leave when they are full and arrive at the station when they do. There is no real schedule, and time is seen as subjective and fluid here.

Another American assumption that does not hold – seats are not for a set number of people. They are for as many people as can be crammed into them. A bajaj with 3 seats in the back and one in front for the driver? I’ve seen (and been one of) 9 passengers. A “mini bus” for 12? I’ve been one of 27. The larger buses….cram as many people in as you can. Hold on!

An unfortunate addition to this is that some people think fresh air brings diseases to you (??)….so unless you’ve staked out a window, settle in for a long, hot ride.

As I said in the intro, I’m thankfully relaxing and getting the hang of the transportation “system”. I made it to Jimma and back by myself, which definitely helped me with feeling like “I can do this!” thing.

(*about thelittle three wheeled vehicle, and a kit-kit is a type of bus.)

Moving is Exhausting 

Moving is Exhausting 

It’s so easy to start comparing sites….who has it the hardest (no electricity), who has it best (a computer lab and wifi in your school???!?)….but to do that you have to quantify the unquantifiable. It’s as fun as banging your head against the wall.

For the record, my house has occasional electricity, occasional cell service, and a porch! Which is super helpful. Also, a friendly dog (Abu) who just had puppies. My school is shared with grades 1-8, and has no lab or library. The woreda (county? district?) is currently working to raise money to build a high school in my town.

[Side note: peace corps works exceptionally hard to distinguish itself from other aid organizations. Our mission is to empower and educate, primarily. Not provide money. That said, if there’s an opportunity for me to facilitate donations, I’ll let you all know.]

[The view from my school, looking towards town, and the Oromia flag.]

In the chaos of navigating a new culture, town, and bus system; (Septa – I’ve heard you’ve been having troubles lately, but know that you’re forever safe from my criticism), what I’ve been missing most is familiarity and feeling comfortable. Just knowing what’s going on and how things work or being able to walk outside without second guessing – are they talking about me? Is something I’m wearing culturally insensitive? Does that man want to help me because he’s being nice or does he want something else?

It’s been exhausting. Luckily, a month-ish in, I’m starting to feel comfortable. The fact that I love my landpeople and my house, has helped a LOT. Also, learning the incredibly unpredictable bus system has also helped. There are a few days I now know…ish.

While every volunteer has their laundry list of foods they miss; the Illu Babour G17s were talking about foods we miss, and we realized that the underlying theme is variety. (But specifically for me, it’s Penang curry. And sushi. And appropriately salted foods. Also, olive oil. You can find it here in the big cities, but it’s expensive.)
[Abu again! And her puppies. Dogs aren’t well thought of here. Luckily, my land people know her and are ok with her hanging around.]

Final two notes for this incredibly disjointed post: my regional peace corps office is in Jimma. There are fantastic people in Jimma loop.

Secondly, a friend has a blog that gives a really wonderful and thorough accounting of his experiences here. And it’s a hilarious read. Long, but totally worth it. Check out his most recent post here: Colby’s Blog.


[attempt to roast coffee, try one. Partly burnt, partly uncooked.]

Packing List!!! PST Edition

Disclaimer: Every country is different. (Obviously.) Additionally, there are different PST sites within each Peace Corps country….sometimes…..so even if you’re headed into Peace Corps Ethiopia (welcome!), this might not be helpful. That said, I hope it is.

[Also, what?? two posts in one week??? What is this craziness??? —> I finally remembered to “schedule” a post. No, I probably don’t have cell service right now. sigh]

Without a doubt, the most stressful part of getting ready to leave for Ethiopia (for me) was packing. Especially since I picked up a trip last minute that ate a week almost right before I left. (KWS Class of ’17 – I would do it again in a heartbeat. I had so much fun with you guys. I hope you’re all doing amazing!!!)
Since I just moved into my site (edit: no, now it’s been about a month), I’m looking backwards at what things were unexpectedly helpful during PST (pre-service training). The things I brought specifically for site, I’ll talk about later. (At this rate, it’ll be when I’m about to leave hahaha).

The biggest thing about peace corps and packing, is to know yourself. What small things make you happy now, and make your life marginally better? A particular pen? An article of clothing? A brand of toothpaste? Find those small things, and bring them. As many as makes sense. In the long run, it’ll be worth the workout in the airport.


[a piece of the Addis skyline from my favorite hotel.]

Miscellaneous – things I’m so glad a brought.

A small sewing kit – 2 colors of thread, a pack of needles, a few pins, and small scissors. I’ve used this 9 times already.

A hammock. I’ve only used this once yet, and it was already, totally worth it. (I got an ENO single, with the regular Atlas straps. which can double as a laundry line.

Battery pack. Just do it. The best you can afford. I stalked amazon and found a pretty good one on sale. If you find one that charges via solar too – even better.

External Hard Drive – at LEAST 2T. Mine 3T is already almost full. (Shout out to Lisa and Joe for being the #1 reason it’s over 75% full).

Jerky – this saved me so so many times. (Shout out to Trader Joe’s Terkey Jerky!) Ethiopia is very very religious. I was with an Orthodox Christian family (they do drink alcohol, but during fasting days – (all Wednesdays, Fridays and holy days), they don’t eat any animal products. There was a month with meat only once. They gave me eggs a few times, specially, but that was rare.)

Clothes pins! – super helpful.

My travel mug – I needed this so much. About halfway through PST I hit one of many walls, and being able to make my own tea and take it with me to trainings saved my sanity. Ethiopian culture is incredibly helpful and generous, but being able to make my own tea, without sugar, in a “normal” size mug, was magical.

Earplugs! – between all of the churches and mosques, who always seem to have generators, there were plenty of nights when I would have been woken up at midnight, 2am, 4am, 5:30 and 6am. There was one 24hr period where a church took 8 20min breaks from continuous music. That was not a good day for me to say the least. But with earplugs, I survived it. 🙂


[My first attempt making coffee all the way through from cleaning the beans to “boiling” the coffee. It went pretty well. Also featured: my front porch! Notice the paint can in lieu of a coffee tray. The tiny mugs are borrowed from my fantastic land lady.]

ORGANIZATIONAL ITEMS!! Of all kinds. – packing cubes (lightweight/backpacking kind), ziplock baggies, a toiletry bag that props open….whatever it is that works for you, bring it. I’ve been living out of my suitcase for the past three months, and I’m not sure when I’ll find something to transfer everything to. If you need to be organized to stay sane, bring things to help you. (edit: one month into site, and I’m still living out of my suitcase.)

Gear ties – google them. If you have a problem with charger cords….you’re welcome.

Duct tape – I wish I brought more. I have heard that it’s available somewhere….probably Addis.

Photos from home – for me, putting photos up in a room makes it mine. Also, everyone here wants to know when your family looks like. They make a great addition to a host family gift. Also, I gave my host dad a picture of President Obama and he kissed it he was so happy.

Grayl water filter bottle – if you don’t want to pay for water but haven’t set your filter up yet….this is for you.

Toiletries – they say 3 months, but if you’re attached to a brand or something, bring more. The only thing I’ve run out of so far is deodorant. Shout out to Catie and my friends for sending me more. 🙂


[My joy at receiving a package from my amazing friends. And if you can read that, it’s not my address anymore. Email me if you want to send me a letter. 😁]

The Basics:<<<<<
somewhere to bring about three weeks of clothes. I have about three and a half weeks of underwear. Although it's easy to wash, there have been a couple times I have used almost all of them. Especially since during the rainy season when it can take clothes 3 days to dry.

I did bring leggings, a few pairs, and I'm so glad I did. I wear them in my house, when I'm doing laundry, and even a few times to run. If needed, I just toss a skirt over them. Super easy.

And they make it easier to use the shint bet. Important things.

Tshirts!! I brought 8. They're not super difficult to wash, and they're easy to dress up with a scarf.

Nice shirts – I brought 5.

Dress pants – 3, and they are a pain to wash. I’m glad I have them, because they make me feel more like myself, but they’re difficult.

Skirts – I wish I brought more. You can wear them more times before you have to wash them. Also, darker colors are the best.

[The momma dog who adopted me. She’s named “Abu” as in abucado (avocado). No, I didn’t name her but I like Abu.]

School-related Things:<<<<<
er. I'm so glad I brought it.

A notebook, or 3. If you're a notebook snob, bring one. I brought a small-ish one that had all my notes from language and PST sessions, and then a big one I'm going to use for lesson plans moving forward.

Writing implements of all kinds. There is one type of pen available. If you're not a pen snob, don't worry. If you are, bring some. Or steal some from the hotel at staging.

Paper clips, a small stapler, binder clips, rubber bands….things like this. I brought an altoids tin with these things. You can find them in country, but they're tough to find. I found them helpful. Because I'm naturally very scattered, organization is necessary for me to be a functional human.

I'm sure I'm forgetting things, but c'est la vie. I hope this is helpful. Or was interesting. If it was neither… email our customer support and I'll be sure to refund you.

We’re Official! 

About a month ago – (already??!!? Sorry, lack of connectivity – so bad I can’t even use data for anything other than messaging and if I’m lucky, email – has pushed this post back.) – we became official PCVs. Peace Corps Ethiopia G17 has sworn in! For those of you confused about the 2-and-a-bit year commitment, the 2 years start now.

[We’re the five G17s headed to Oromia. And one of our teachers, Abiyot.]

Three of us got to give a speech at the embassy during the ceremony. I got to speak for the group. If you know me, then you know how much I love public speaking. I really love the speech I wrote, so here it is:

———///———-

Your excellency, …. and fellow trainees, thank you for allowing me a few minutes to speak.

And thank you to the Government of Ethiopia for inviting us to come here and work along side local teachers and administrators. We are all honored to be here.

We are here today to witness and celebrate the next step in a dream that many of us have worked towards for years. Countless internal debates, essay revisions, application submissions, medical tests, packing decisions and goodbyes led us to D.C. in June, and then Ethiopia. where we committed to three months of pre service training.

We have been in Ethiopia for only three months. Three months of eating new foods, drinking too much coffee, living out of our luggage; wading through rain, mud and new cultural norms…(for my friends in Tigray….water shortages, walking through dust and around rocks? I’m not sure, sorry.) We have had three months of homework assignments, sweat, tears, vomit, diarrhea, upset stomachs, fevers and overall not enough sleep to land here today.

Over the past three months we have waded deeper into the waters of the Ethiopian culture, making shifts and finding new norms that have woven us into the tapestry of Ethiopia at a deep level – creating ties that have already changed us forever. Our service will only weave us deeper.

I believe we represent the best ideals of America – that love is stronger than fear. That hope and truth will always win. That equality is worth sacrificing for. That every human deserves respect, and the freedom to live a life they choose.

We have chosen to surrender our old lives and blindly jump into the world armed only with our intention to be a force for good, and our friends to support us. To quote President Obama; inherent in the fabric of America – the tapestry we came from – is “the idea that for all our cultural differences, we are all in this together. That we all rise or fall as one.” It is this belief that has led us here, to help where we can, if we can.

There will be many days where it will be difficult or even impossible to see the changes we are making, but the truth is that simply by being present – wherever we are – we are changing the world around us. So let’s just take a breath, lean on each other, and celebrate the small victories we can find in each day.

I am so grateful for all the volunteers before us who have built this program, for the staff who are our bridge between cultures and the behind-the-scenes support; for our LCFs and PST team who have graciously answered every difficult question, and welcomed us into their culture; for the programming team and administration (Nancy, Brannon, Caroline and Dr. Dan), who believe in this program and support us tirelessly, and to Jules, Andre, Madeline, Bennet and Alyssa – PCVs and PCV Leaders- thank you so much. We wish you the absolute best as you head out. Thank you for supporting us through the blood, sweat, tears and vomit of the past three months. We love you.

To G17 – here we go!

———///———-

[It’s important to note that I was asked to take the mentions of vomit and diarrhea out due to it being a formal, official occasion. This, however, is my favorite version.]

<photo>


[this is the “oh-my-god-we-made-it-through-PST-now-what???” face. Also, these are traditional Oromo outfits. We’re the only two women headed to Oromia so we decided to represent.]

Because this is posted so late, I’ve been living at my site (a tiny village outside of Metu, in the Illu Babour region of Oromia), for about three weeks now.

School started this week, but it’s a slow rolling, sometimes nonexistent start. Additionally the coffee harvest season is coming up soon, which will keep many kids out of school in a few months. Not that I didn’t know this going in, but I’m learning to be flexible. Again, and again, and again. In new and fascinating ways and areas.

Site Visit! 

Site Visit! 

(The picture above is of Mettu) 

Site visit!

This is a week, sometime during PST (Pre-service training) when we go and see where we’ll be living for the next two years.
(Monkeys are like squirrels here, but more destructive. And shyer.)

There are three main languages in Ethiopia: Amharic, Oromo and Tigrinya. Oromo is spoken by the highest number of people, living in Oromia – a swath of land through the middle (west to the center, around Addis) and then south east of the country. Amharic and Tigrinya are cousin languages, both using Fidel script, spoken in Amhara and Tigray respectively. (Amharic is also the main/official language for SNNPR (Southern Nations), and is the official language of the country.) I’m headed to Oromia, so I’ve been learning Afan Oromo. 

My site is a tiny village near-ish Mettu, in the Illu Babour region of Oromia. (West/ Central Oromia). It is FAR from Addis. Those of us around Mettu – our regional office is in Jimma. Jimma is 65%ish Amharic speakers and 35%ish Oromo, but people who speak Oromo are always thrilled when we ferengis (foreigners) speak it, so that’s fun. Jimma is a day’s travel away, but I get to meet up with great people there, so it’ll be worth it. (Volunteers in the Keffa region of Southern nations are centered in Jimma too.)

(I found apples!!!! But they’re so so so expensive.)
Site visit was stressful, and incredibly helpful. The best part was meeting the PCVs already in the area. Because of events that happened in Ethiopia last year, everyone currently serving in Peace Corps Ethiopia was given the opportunity to go home and receive “interrupted service”. What this means for me? Everyone who is here, really wants to be. I get to join an amazing community of people. 

Over the past few months I’ve felt my standards changing – for almost everything. Hotel rooms, cell phone use, coffee, clothes, restaurants… food diversity… but after coming back to our training site we all realized where we are right now is not rural. We’re all about to go through another big lifestyle change. Again. This time for two years. So we’ll see how that goes. 

My home for the next two years! My land lady is a gem. She’s absolutely fantastic. 

Living the Hobbit Life*

Living the Hobbit Life*

Happy Month-ish-a-versary!!

Emphasis on the “ish”. It’s officially been 43 days since I flew out of PHL with two suitcases, a duffel, a backpack and a colony of butterflies in my stomach.

It’s been a month(ish) of living out of suitcases, eating new foods and meeting new people who are crazy in the same way as me. It’s been a fantastic rollercoaster.

In honor of this anniversary-ish, here are a list of superlatives, and random facts.

And some fun pictures.

The compound rooster, with his legs loosely tied together to stop him from flying over the fence into the neighbor’s yard.

What do I miss most? My dog, Luciano. Sorry everyone.

Person I miss most? Danielle. (Duh.)

Food I miss most? Tough, but I’ve got to go with prosciutto. Salty Italian meats, oh how I love and miss you.

Text that has made me laugh the hardest? Lisa and Joe – your response to my shower in Addis. 💗💗💗😁  I’m telling people here that story and sharing the laughs. I love you both.

Best communication method? Surprisingly? Email. Letters take about a month. Text is tough for anything lengthy.

(Feel free to email me, if You’ve got my address. Feel free to ask someone if you don’t.)

Most painful thing I’ve seen? The way animals are treated here. Hands down. The US has a HUGE problems with the way animals are treated – livestock and labs (—> cosmetics testing), but here it’s blatantly in the open. And it’s painful.

Most beautiful thing I’ve seen? Lake Langano. Mostly because I was able to swim in it last week. It was miraculous.

Best thing I’ve eaten here? Freshly fried samosas. Called “sambusas”, they’re fantastic. And cheap.

Best coincidence I’ve encountered? My sister and I are 7 years apart and share a birthday. My host sisters are 5 years apart and share a birthday! Way cool.

A monkey seen on a friend’s roof.

andom Facts:Of the 32 days I’ve been in Butajira, it’s rained at least 25 of them. The rainy season ends in September, so until then, I’m going to keep congratulating myself on bringing my rain boots.

  • The tops of glasses and mugs are just suggestions here. Water tension is tested on the daily. If it’s not about to spill, the glass isn’t full enough.
  • An invitation to someone’s house for coffee, even casually as you’re waking home, isn’t actually a coffee invite. It’s an invite for a full meal.
  • Salt is though of as slightly unnecessary. Nothing here is salty enough for me. But red pepper (berbère) is in almost everything.
  • There is a wide array of technology here in Butajira – even flat screen TVs! But electricity is super spotty.
  • The Ethiopian New Year is coming up! Ironically it’s on September 11th. Also, they follow a different calendar year as well, so it’s going to turn 2010 here. I get to see that happen again!
Lake Langano! Because it’s silty, certain bacteria can’t grow, and therefore it’s safe to swim in! 😁

A
Peace Corps Ethiopia:

Well, this section is more accurately “About Peace Corps Ethiopia G17”. I don’t know enough yet to give an overview of the program(s) here.

  • We are a group of 40. We’ve been split into a group of 10 that went north to Tigray and 30 that are here in the south. The 30 of us down south are split between three towns – Kela, Bu’i and Butajira.
  • We are called “G17” because we’re the 17th group serving in Ethiopia since the country opened back up to the Peace Corps in the 2007.
  • We’re all going to be teaching HS.  – the odd numbered groups are education, the even number groups are health and agriculture sector volunteers.
  • The health and ag volunteers come to Ethiopia in January. Education comes in June so we can start the school year in September.
  • Our classrooms will probably have 60-100 students. Maybe more. Probably not less.

I’ve had some tough days recently – there’s nothing like getting sick to make you rethink anything, but today was good.

We started teaching a 3-week English camp, creating lesson plans from the text book for whatever grade we’re teaching. (I’m with 10th.)

The first day was anxiety inducing. But I’ve been able to draw out and connect with quite a few of my students; and despite the names being really foreign to my tongue, I’m figuring them out. And laughing along the way.

Friday’s class was excellent. I felt super comfortable, despite the fact I’m getting over being sick. Today I feel like I can do this thing.

And tomorrow is Sunday – I get to sleep in!!!!!

So. Excited.

😊

*about the title – there are so many meals a day. Breakfast, mid morning “shai buna”, lunch, pre-dinner snack, dinner, and post-dinner coffee.

How many days look. Our local “buna” (coffee) place.